Leonard Cohen's Hydra

“Greece is a good place to look at the moon, isn’t it?”

Molar City

It’s hard to imagine how truly full of dentists Los Algodones is. They are everywhere.

In Search of Absence in Antarctica

It’s not that I divide my life into the periods before and after I went, exactly. It’s more that the trip accelerated a gradual change that has been happening all my life.

Big Sky

I didn’t realize, when I drove a U-Haul packed with all of my belongings 1500 miles away from home to a new apartment and a new city on the East coast, that I was leaving the sky behind.

The Bars Tell Stories

I’d returned to Puerto Rico to drink, yes, but more than that, to see how much—and how little—Hurricane Maria had changed things.

Holiday on the Icy Golden Hell-Staircase

Thousands of Gold Rush prospectors climbed the Chilkoot, and many lost their lives. In the grand tradition of Dark Tourism, I decided to join the 2,500 people who now hike it for fun every summer.

The Myth of the Myth of the City of Love

Does Paris Syndrome, a sickness of dashed expectations, even exist? 

A view of the sunset over the water from the deck of a ferry in Alaska
The End of Alaska's Ferry Bars

On-deck taverns on the Marine Highway System bring together residents of a solitary state, but not for much longer.

A Reliably Fun Thing I’ll Do Every Other Year Or So

The luxury cruise is, often, a vacation to be endured: the rigid structure, embarrassing pampering, forced interaction, the terrible predictability of it all. What could compel a person to keep shipping out, year after year?

Let the Right Ones In: Haiti’s Precarious Tourism Boom

How traditionally tourist-free nations can make tourism work for rather than against them.