Food

The Close of the First Decade

Starvation became a stand-in for the pain of loneliness; a way to account for it, and also to punish myself for being unlovable.

Hunger Makes Me

A man’s appetite can be hearty, but a woman with an appetite—for food, for sex, for simple attention—is always voracious: she always overreaches, because it is not supposed to exist.

Of Salty Reviews and Silent Chefs

When New York’s Per Se was devastated by a recent Times review, why weren’t restaurateur Thomas Keller’s peers anywhere to be seen?

The Year in Kitchen Nightmares

Contempt for reality television is less a specific response than a herd sentiment. And yet, after so many hours under its spell, I feel like I’ve turned a corner: Gordon Ramsay is a genius.

Our Tarts, Ourselves

Butter tarts are strangely modest in their excess, a two-dollar decadence. But like that Canadian myth of innocent blandness, a butter tart’s surface hides something much more complex.

Murder For Lunch

Now that I was once again omnivorous, I wanted to watch a deer get turned into meat.

Dinner For One

When you grow up eating alone, sometimes a terrible dinner is all you can ask for.

A Hero’s Just A Sandwich

We may want to have a drink with our idols, but what’s the cost of toasting power?

Short Memory Town

It’s an exciting time for Toronto’s restaurants, but we’d do well to remember how we got here. 

Female Authority and the Male Leadership Myth

In the notoriously sexist and gossipy restaurant industry, “bosses” become “bitches” far too easily.